Two Days in Sfakia There are places in Crete where the road itself seems to announce that you are entering different country, and the approach to Anopoli is one of them. From the coast the road climbs relentlessly into Sfakia, twisting upwards through country that becomes progressively barer and more severe until, eventually, the village…

We had driven across from Kokkino Chorio with the bikes in the car, leaving the familiar country of Apokoronas behind and crossing Crete towards Sfakia. By the time we reached Anopoli, the journey had already brought us into another landscape. The Libyan Sea lay somewhere below and behind us; ahead rose the great pale mass…